My Athens, Part I
- Katerina
- Oct 21
- 4 min read
Welcome friends!
Last summer, I had the joy of returning to my homeland—Greece—for a long-awaited vacation. Naturally, my first stop was Athens, the city that shaped me. It’s where I was born, raised, studied, worked, and lived until my early 30s. Athens isn’t just a place on the map for me—it’s a mosaic of memories, emotions, and stories.
After a few slow, sun-drenched days reconnecting with my parents, brother, nephews, uncles, cousins, and lifelong friends, I found myself caught between jetlag and nostalgia. The August heat was relentless—40 degrees Celsius day and night, with the sidewalks steaming and the tightly packed apartment buildings trapping every breath of air. My mind felt as foggy and heavy as the air around me.
Still, one morning, with my wonderful parents stepping in as the world’s best babysitters, I made a bold decision: to rediscover My Athens. Not the touristy version, but the city as I knew it—as a student, a young professional, and a new mom. Sleepless but determined, I stepped out early. By 7:30 a.m., I was on the metro, and by 8:00, I was standing in the heart of the city—Syntagma Square—ready to walk through memories and rediscover the soul of Athens.
Bathed in the golden light of the Athenian morning, the Parliament stood serene as I began my descent toward Ermou Street—Athens’ most vibrant commercial artery, and the busiest shopping street in all of Greece. There’s something quietly magical about walking Ermou so early, before the shops open and the city fully stirs. The usual hum of life is replaced by a rare tranquility, yet you can feel the energy gently rising, like a heartbeat preparing to quicken.
Resisting the temptation to linger at one of the charming cafés tucked into Ermou’s side alleys, I paused briefly at the Church of Panagia Kapnikarea, a Byzantine jewel nestled in the middle of the street. Built in the 11th century atop ancient ruins, it has watched over the city for nearly a millennium, a silent witness to Athens’ ever-changing rhythm.
Continuing on, I reached Monastiraki Square, where the scent of freshly baked goods from nearby bakeries danced in the air. In the distance, the Parthenon rose majestically above the city, its timeless grace sheltering Athens for nearly 2,500 years. Though the aromas were tempting, my thirst for exploration was stronger.
I wandered briefly through beloved Plaka, the old neighborhood of the gods, with its neoclassical houses and labyrinthine alleys. Though I didn’t climb up to Anafiotika—the Cycladic-style enclave built by islanders in the 19th century—I returned to Monastiraki and entered the Ancient Agora, once the heart of public life in classical Athens. It was blissfully quiet, the early hour granting me a rare solitude among ruins that once echoed with the voices of Socrates and Pericles.
With a refreshing freddo cappuccino in hand, I watched lazy cats basking in the sun near ancient marble columns. Then I followed Apostolou Pavlou Street, a cobbled promenade linking Monastiraki to Thiseio, lined with tasteful cafés and restaurants offering uninterrupted views of the Acropolis.
At Thiseio, I turned onto Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, arguably the most beautiful street in Athens. Paved and elegant, it leads directly to the soul of the city—the sacred rock of the Acropolis. Along its path, you’ll find stately neoclassical mansions, rooftop gardens with breathtaking views, and the Acropolis Museum, a modern architectural marvel housing treasures of antiquity.
Despite being in the heart of bustling Athens, the serenity here is surreal. I heard only cicadas and felt the cleansing energy of the ancient monuments wrap around me like a protective veil.
Eventually, I reached the crossroads leading to the Acropolis and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a Roman-era theater still hosting select performances under the stars. Though the sun was high and the heat intense, I couldn’t resist the pull of the sacred rock. It was a lost battle from the start.
I waited my turn at the ticket booth, shaded by olive trees and stone benches, surrounded by travelers from every corner of the globe.
The ascent isn’t overly demanding for those with moderate activity levels, though comfortable shoes are a must—some stones can be slippery.
And then, I was there.
Standing atop the Acropolis, face to face with the Parthenon and the Erechtheion, with its proud Caryatides, I was overcome. Words fail to capture the feeling. If you ever find yourself here, empty your mind, breathe in the ancient Attic air, and reflect: these columns were crafted by visionary architects thousands of years ago, once painted in vivid colors, alive with ritual and reverence.
From this height, the city of Athens unfolds around you like a living tapestry.
After soaking in the sacred energy and feeling my heart full and spirit calm, I descended light and joyful. I wandered lazily back, stopping for brunch at Athinaion Politeia, one of Athens’ most iconic cafés. I devoured a delicious avocado toast with roasted mushrooms, and with my strength restored, browsed the shops along Ermou, ending at my favorite destination: Public, the sprawling bookstore at Syntagma Square.
This was the first of my summer wanderings through my beloved city, focused on its historic heart. I hope it inspires you to explore Athens—not just as a tourist, but as a traveler seeking connection, beauty, and timeless stories!
Take care, Katerina
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