My Athens Part II: Athens After Sunset

Hey there friends!

Just one day after my first big city tour (see my previous post about Athens), I felt a surge of excitement—an irresistible urge to rediscover my beloved city. Athens, with all its layers of history and emotion, was calling me again.

This time, I stepped out around 7 p.m.. The heat still lingered, the temperature hovering in the high thirties, but the golden light of the late afternoon sun softened the atmosphere. A whisper of breeze made the walk more bearable, almost soothing.

Once again, I chose public transportation—parking in the center is a challenge, and I wanted the freedom to wander without a fixed destination. I got off at Panepistimio metro station, drawn by a wave of nostalgia to revisit the places I frequented as a university student.

As I emerged from the station, I was greeted by the Athenian Trilogy: three majestic neoclassical buildings standing side by side on Panepistimiou Street—the National Library of Greece, the University of Athens, and the Academy of Athens. Their grandeur never fails to move me.

I began my ascent on Sina Street, crossed Akadimias, and arrived at Athens Law School (Nomiki)—a place deeply etched in my memory. I paused there, letting waves of student memories wash over me.

Circling the Law School, I found myself on Solonos Street, renowned for its bookstores, many of which are treasures of literary Athens. I turned onto Skoufa Street and continued uphill. The emotion of seeing my old haunts—though many had changed—was indescribable. Everything felt familiar, yet different.

Midway up Skoufa, the Church of Saint Dionysios the Areopagite, the largest Orthodox church in Athens, stood in solemn beauty. A little further, on the left, I spotted the steps leading up to Lycabettus Hill—but I resisted the temptation and continued straight.

At the end of Skoufa, I reached Kolonaki Square, the most aristocratic neighborhood in central Athens. Its elegant boutiques and stylish cafés whispered sophistication. I wandered through its streets, admiring the neoclassical architecture and designer houses, until I gave in to the allure of Da Cappo, the iconic café of the square, a favorite among lawyers and artists.

After a rejuvenating cappuccino, I walked down Akadimias Street, which connects Kolonaki to Syntagma Square. Dusk had fallen, and as the hour changed, I headed toward the Hellenic Parliament, just in time to witness the ceremonial changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Behind me, the Grande Bretagne Hotel stood in majestic silence.

Crossing Syntagma, I descended Ermou Street. Its nighttime face was entirely different from the quiet morning I had seen before. Crowds of tourists slowed the pace, giving me time to explore the vibrant bars, cafés, and restaurants that pulsed with life. Music filled the air—Greek folk, Latin rhythms, and more—creating a mesmerizing blend of sounds.

By now, it was 9 p.m.. I continued down Ermou, letting my senses feast on the sights, scents, and sounds, until I reached Monastiraki Square. The illuminated Parthenon smiled down at me from above, and unable to resist its call, I turned left into Plaka, the most enchanting part of Athens.

The crowds were astonishing—people from every corner of the world filled the narrow streets. Yet I pressed on, souvlaki in hand (well-earned after all that walking!), climbing higher and higher until I reached the Anafiotika. There, I paused to enjoy the rare evening breeze and the breathtaking view of Athens by night.

The peacefulness of that magical place recharged me. With renewed energy, I began my descent, accompanied by romantic melodies drifting from Plaka’s tavernas. I returned to Monastiraki Square and crossed Ermou once more, this time taking its parallel street, Mitropoleos, where I made a final stop to admire the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, standing solemn and otherworldly in the midnight city.

From there, I met dear friends waiting for me at another hotspot of Athenian nightlife: Psyrri Square. As a student—and even later—I prided myself on knowing every atmospheric bar in Psyrri. But now, almost all my old favorites were gone, replaced by new ones. For a moment, I felt older. But with my friends by my side, I quickly shook off the shock!

The only dilemma left was choosing which of the many vibrant spots to sit for a drink…

And so, beautifully and blissfully, my second big evening adventure in the heart of Athens came to an end.

I hope you enjoyed this journey with me—and that it serves as inspiration for your own magical walk through Athens!

   Love, Katerina